Marc Jacobs has done it again – an utterly amazing collection for Louis Vuitton. The Spring 2012 Collection was light as a feather – literally and figuratively – in colors we thought only the Easter Bunny could produce so elegantly. The lightest shades of robin’s egg blue, lemon meringue, and shell pink went round the runway. There were prim day-suits with cropped jackets and skirts of broderie anglaise and lace. Even more stunning were the cotton candy dresses – beautiful creations made of lace, chiffon and feathers. Jacobs, like many designers this season, created voluminous silhouettes with full skirts and rounded shoulders, but in a way that was all his own. And the icing on the cake – the show was closed by none other than Kate Moss.
The Spring Collection from MiuMiu was darker than one would expect for spring, opening with looks in dark charcoal, black, and burgundy. Bralette tops and full skirts paraded down the runway, along with short dresses paired with capes and little capelets. Ms. Prada kept the collection interesting with her use of lace and patchwork prints. Our favorite pieces in the collection were the evening jackets in lace, prints, and soft colors, sweetly tied with a velvet bow.
We might as well just call Elie Saab’s collection “Live from the Red Carpet” Spring 2012. Gown after gorgeous gown bounded down the runway, in hues ranging from white to mustard yellow to emerald. There were Grecian gowns fit for a goddess, beaded numbers that are sure to have the flashbulbs popping, and even a few suits with sheer and lace embellishments, putting a feminine spin on the menswear inspired ensembles. The highlights of the collection, though, were the dresses of lace and chiffon, understated and elegant.
I believe The Cut said it best when they came up with new lyrics for “Under the Sea” to describe the Chanel Spring 2012 show:
“The seaweed is always whiter
in Karl Lagerfeld’s lake.
You dream about going down there
Where bags are all that’s not fake.
Just look at the world around you!
Right there on your cubicle floor.
You should have been at this morning’s Chanel show!”
Mr. Lagerfeld turned the Grand Palais into a white sea-scape, complete with shells, coral and – Florence + the Machine (but not a mermaid! As Karl liked to point out). The nearly all white collection was punctuated with shades of shell-pink and seafoam, and iridescent touches that glistened like the ocean. Traditional Chanel skirt suits were pared down, with little to no embellishment. The dresses were beautiful, with intricate pleats, delicate paillettes, and ruffles that looked like waves. The entire show was an underwater fairytale.
The Spring 2012 Collection, Sarah Burton‘s third for the Alexander McQueen label, was exquisitely feminine without being sweet. The silhouettes showed off the female figure, cinched at the waist letting up just a bit at the hem for movement. And the details were divine – delicate pleating, laser-cut leather, and sculpted ruffles cascading down the runway. The series of gowns that closed the show made it apparent that the dedication to expert technique and construction has not been lost at the house of McQueen, as each piece was truly a work of art.