On Saturday, the De Young Museum hosted a conversation between Jean Paul Gaultier and fashion journalist Suzy Menkes, in honor of the opening of the designer’s exhibit The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk. “Jean Paul Gaultier is one of the funniest, most talented, wittiest, and funkiest fashion designers I know,” Menkes began. The only thing we might add to the list: most charming – he really is wonderful to talk to, which we learned during his visit to the School of Fashion.

During the hour and half discussion, Suzy touched on everything from his early love of fashion inspired by the Folies Bergère, to his work with Madonna, and the business side of fashion that is seldom discussed. She was quick to point out how deserving Jean Paul was of the exhibition, saying, “I’d just like to start with something a little bit more serious. In fashion, the real reason that people last – and when it comes to Jean Paul Gaultier is probably talked about the least – is the technique, the skill, the handwork, the knowledge. Sometimes it gets buried underneath the fantasies of the clothes, but if you look hard, you will see the extraordinary craftsmanship.” And it is so true – going through the exhibition, you are able to see the intense attention to detail and all of the hard work – particularly when looking at the couture gowns.

When asked about his early years, creating the corsets and dressing Madonna, Jean Paul cited his mother and grandmother as inspiration, who influenced him from a very young age. “They taught me how women were: strong, clever, human – and sometimes stronger than men. I realized very quickly that women were more interesting and maybe even more clever.” And he sought to portray that through the clothing – it was not about sexualizing women, but about showing their power. He spoke of how much he enjoyed working with Madge – they had similar ideas and wanted to say the same things. He also confessed that the original cone bra was worn not by Madonna, but by his teddy bear, Nana, who had a cone bra made of newspaper, which you can see in the exhibition.

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You can download the casting application here. The minimum age to apply is 21 – students are eligible as long as they meet the age requirement. All applications are due by March 15th, so get them in soon!

Farida Khan was born in Pakistan and now lives in Doha, Qatar. She received a Higher National Diploma in Fashion Design from Edexcel BTEC and completed her M.F.A. in Fashion Design through the Academy of Art University’s Online Fashion Program. She honed her design skills working as an assistant designer at Ali Khan and as a technical designer at the Virginia Commonwealth University in Qatar. For her collection, Farida was inspired by the idea of unconventional beauty. She constructed bold silhouettes using wool, cotton, coated denim, polyurethane, and punched leather.

Amy Bond was born in Pocatello, Idaho, and grew up in Texas, Illinois, & Pennsylvania. She graduated from Stephens College with a B.F.A. in Fashion Design and worked as an assistant designer at St. Pucchi in Los Angeles, before starting her own clothing line in 1999. She completed her M.F.A. in Fashion Design through the Academy of Art University’s Online Fashion Program. Amy was inspired by complex shapes and construction – but strove to make the complexities appear clean and minimal. She used fabrics that would bring light and movement to the collection, including silk georgette, silk charmeuse, and Schoeller-Aeroshell.

Juanyu Jade Liu was born and raised in Shanghai, China. She earned her B.A. in Fashion Design from Soochow University and worked as a design intern with Suzhou Temost Textile and Garment Co. as well as Guotia Internaitional Group. She is pursuing an M.F.A. in Fashion Design at the Academy of Art University and has honed her skills working as a pattern maker for gr.dano. Her collection was inspired by the French collage artist Damien Blottiere, known for his unique layering technique that creates shadows and empty space. She layered several fabrics, including wool, jersey and fur, to achieve the same effect.

Deanna Pei-Ju Lo hails from Taipei, Taiwan and graduated with a B.F.A. in Commercial and Graphic Design from Ming Chuan University. She worked as a graphic designer before coming to the Academy of Art University to pursue an M.F.A. in Fashion Design. Her women’s wear collection has a borrowed-from-the-boys feel, a look she describes as “a modern Teddy Boy.” Soft, luxurious fabrics such as lambskin and cotton velvet add a subtle femininity to the collection.

Kate Y.K. Lee hails from Seoul, South Korea. She attended Se Jong University, where she earned a B.A. in Fashion Design, before coming to the Academy of Art University where she received an M.F.A. in Fashion Design. Kate’s designs were featured in the Italian Trade Commission Collection, a collaborative collection presented at the Academy of Art University’s Spring 2012 Fashion Show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Her Fall 2012 collection was inspired by the sculptural elements of architecture and features rounded silhouettes, offset by defined lines and sharp, angled seams. She constructed the garments using leather, wool knits, lightweight wool, and silk charmeuse.

In today’s Alumni Update, we catch up with Cara Chiappetta, who graduated from the School of Fashion in 2011 with an M.F.A. in Fashion Design. She now has a job that she absolutely loves and learns from everyday! Read on to find out more!

You debuted your senior collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week S/S 2011 – what was the experience like?

In one word: surreal. In three: a great honor. I remember working in NYC in 2000 near Bryant Park and walking past the white tents in the chilly-city early mornings promising myself that I too, would be under those tents- as a designer. I just never expected it happen so soon, and at Lincoln Center, no less. It was a promise I kept with myself and I am so grateful for the opportunity and as a designer, so grateful to have not let myself down. And so grateful to represent my brilliant Directors, professors, and fellow students at the Academy of Art University. The experience overall was very stressful, very challenging and yet, all the more enlightening.

What were the most valuable lessons you learned while creating your collection and presenting it in New York?

Flexibility, respecting and adhering to deadlines, adaptability, and that asking questions are key. Oh! And happy accidents. Happy accidents are so precious – I learned the actual process has its own fuel and to embrace the amazing unexpected things that happen along the way. My best work probably stems from those “I think I thought I did, but what just happened? …because that looks good!” As much as I seem to function as a type A personality- which I think helped me along the way- I let myself get lost in the design process. I learned my valuable lesson of letting go. It was a special time for me. I had the freedom to revisit and analyze everything I ever loved in this great big world and everything that ever inspired me. I was able to identify myself as process-based; I had to go from A-Z, to circle back and find E. If that makes sense. We were taught the tools in school, and I relied on them to tap into what defined me as a designer. That was exciting; suddenly my habits from the past began to make sense. I knew I was exactly where I supposed to be, which was probably why I exhausted all options and opportunities throughout the program. Gonbee at one time declared I was masochistic – but I still argue that it was my time to really push myself.

I had to make a last minute change ten days before the show; it was a bit daunting at the time, but taught me the most invaluable lesson of crisis management. I had to remake six pieces in the collection – for reasons I should have reasoned through prior. But hindsight is 20/20. I would not change what I went through. Honestly, that part of the process has really helped me in the most stressful situations. I refuse to allow myself to get into this “fickle-pickle.” I now have a very calm demeanor – even more so than before – and am able to think clearly in hectic situations. I made a pact with myself that I will never let myself cry, consume copious amounts of Cheetos, and call my mom like I did that one afternoon – as I attempted to source new fabric ideas in Berkeley. Never. Will. I. Again. (Until the work is complete, of course.) I lost 3 precious hours that day that I could have used to keep moving forward. As long as I gave 110% effort, I knew I wouldn’t look back with regrets. And I don’t, which is very settling.

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Name: Jennifer Ballou

Where do you live? I live in a small town in southwest Colorado called Durango.

Area of Study: I am currently finishing my MFA in Fashion Design

Day Job/Occupation:

I work as a freelance designer and illustrator and am a full-time student.

What Qualities Do You Most Value in Others?

Honesty, loyalty, kindheartedness – someone who is motivated, inspirational, and can make me laugh!

Name three of your favorite designers, journalists, blogs, etc.

There are so many that I love! Blogs I read are Dash in Fashion becuase I love kid’s fashion, Design for Mankind by Erin Loechner, and Paper Fashion by Elyse Rodgers, who is an amazing fashion illustrator. Designers I admire are Anna Sui, Linda Loudermilk, Alexander McQueen, and many more…

List a guilty pleasure:

I am obsessed with Whole Foods!

What is your present state of mind?

Perserverance and dedication.

What is your dream job?

To be able to bring my line and vision to life!

What is the most important thing that people should know about you?

When I want something, I don’t give up until I get it!

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The School of Fashion, along with the School of Industrial Design, participated in the Monterey Bay Aquarium Sea Fashion Challenge, sponsored by SF Gate. Students were asked to create works of art using the Monterey Bay Aquarium  banners from an installation at the Hyatt Hotel this past summer. Each School was asked to create a collection of pieces relevant to their given field.

Simon Ungless’ FSH 604- Fashion Design 3 class, which has a focus on design for environmental and social impact, took on the challenge – and they turned out some beautiful results! Students worked together to design pieces inspired by the beautiful seascapes at the aquarium. Iridescent dresses, ombre coats, and seaweed-like crocheted pieces added to the Under the Sea feeling of the collection.

SF Gate is holding a contest – asking readers which piece is their favorite. So head on over to SF Gate.com and vote for the ensemble that inspires you to take a trip down to Monterey – we know we sure want to!

Students Disscuss, Design, and Create

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