Alber Elbaz after the Lanvin Fall 2012 show – looking adorable. Photo Courtesy of Pierre Verdy/Getty Images.

If you didn’t already love Alber Elbaz (who can resist that adorable man) – this will absolutely melt your heart. At a party celebrating his tenth anniversary with Lanvin, the designer shyly announced that he was going to sing “A song for the people I love, a song to all of these people from fashion that I adore, that helped me to realize my dream. I love you.” We’ll just pretend that we were one of those people, because we adore him! He sang a few lines of Que Será, Será before passing off the mic, and then walked around giving out hugs and kisses to his closest friends and supporters. Luckily, the team at Grazia filmed the whole thing so that we could share it with you. Here’s to another ten years!!

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Marc Jacobs has done it again – an utterly amazing collection for Louis Vuitton. The Spring 2012 Collection was light as a feather – literally and figuratively – in colors we thought only the Easter Bunny could produce so elegantly. The lightest shades of robin’s egg blue, lemon meringue, and shell pink went round the runway. There were prim day-suits with cropped jackets and skirts of broderie anglaise and lace. Even more stunning were the cotton candy dresses – beautiful creations made of lace, chiffon and feathers. Jacobs, like many designers this season, created voluminous silhouettes with full skirts and rounded shoulders, but in a way that was all his own. And the icing on the cake – the show was closed by none other than Kate Moss.

The Spring Collection from MiuMiu was darker than one would expect for spring, opening with looks in dark charcoal, black, and burgundy. Bralette tops and full skirts paraded down the runway, along with short dresses paired with capes and little capelets. Ms. Prada kept the collection interesting with her use of lace and patchwork prints. Our favorite pieces in the collection were the evening jackets in lace, prints, and soft colors, sweetly tied with a velvet bow.

We might as well just call Elie Saab’s collection “Live from the Red Carpet” Spring 2012. Gown after gorgeous gown bounded down the runway, in hues ranging from white to mustard yellow to emerald. There were Grecian gowns fit for a goddess, beaded numbers that are sure to have the flashbulbs popping, and even a few suits with sheer and lace embellishments, putting a feminine spin on the menswear inspired ensembles. The highlights of the collection, though, were the dresses of lace and chiffon, understated and elegant.

I believe The Cut said it best when they came up with new lyrics for “Under the Sea” to describe the Chanel Spring 2012 show:
“The seaweed is always whiter
in Karl Lagerfeld’s lake.
You dream about going down there
Where bags are all that’s not fake.
Just look at the world around you!
Right there on your cubicle floor.
You should have been at this morning’s Chanel show!”
Mr. Lagerfeld turned the Grand Palais into a white sea-scape, complete with shells, coral and – Florence + the Machine (but not a mermaid! As Karl liked to point out). The nearly all white collection was punctuated with shades of shell-pink and seafoam, and iridescent touches that glistened like the ocean. Traditional Chanel skirt suits were pared down, with little to no embellishment. The dresses were beautiful, with intricate pleats, delicate paillettes, and ruffles that looked like waves. The entire show was an underwater fairytale.

The Spring 2012 Collection, Sarah Burton‘s third for the Alexander McQueen label, was exquisitely feminine without being sweet. The silhouettes showed off the female figure, cinched at the waist letting up just a bit at the hem for movement. And the details were divine – delicate pleating, laser-cut leather, and sculpted ruffles cascading down the runway. The series of gowns that closed the show made it apparent that the dedication to expert technique and construction has not been lost at the house of McQueen, as each piece was truly a work of art.

The Spring 2012 Collection from Dries van Noten was nothing short of amazing. The largely black and white collection was beautifully punctuated with pops of color and botanical prints, as well as a night-scape print based on photographs by James Reeve. The silhouettes were structured and intricate, reminiscent of couture pieces created by Balenciaga in the 1950s including boleros, pleats, peplums and ruffles. Dries also offered a wide range of textures, mostly in black, creating dimension throughout the collection.

Stephano Pilati’s Spring collection for Yves Saint Laurent was a lesson in reinventing the suit. He created separates of all types, from slim trousers, to pencil skirts with a flip at the hem, paired with structured jackets and soft, silky tops. Volume was also a major player, opening the show with a trapeze coat, and shown throughout with exaggerated shoulders that we have seen on many runways this season. The jewel tones were beautiful, and combined with the Moroccan-inspired accessories created the feeling of being on holiday in an Oasis. And of course, there were some standout dresses to round things out, gorgeous flowing numbers perfect for those warm spring nights.

This was the first collection by new creative director April Crichton, and it was classic Sonia Rykiel (which makes sense seeing as Crichton has spent her entire career with the designer). Sonia’s daughter, Nathalie Rykiel, was a guest of honor at the School of Fashion this past May. Seventies-inspired knits and sundresses came down the canary yellow runway, in shades of white, yellow, and sienna. There were drop-waisted pleated skirts paired with leotards and loose day suits – a modern take on 1920s style. Closing the show was a series of dresses in floral prints and sunset colors, completing the beautiful debut collection for the new designer.

Vanessa Bruno was clearly inspired by the Mod styles of the 1960s for her spring collection. Barely there minis came down the runway one after another, paired with knee-high peep-toe boots, offering a modern spin on the beloved footwear of the era. She also showed slim pantsuits topped with jackets and knits, in a palette of white, grey, olive, and clay. Sweet liberty prints and jackets embellished with paillettes gave a young, playful feeling to the collection.

Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (who were guests of the School of Fashion in 2010) were appointed as the creative directors at Kenzo in order to bring new life to the brand – and that they did. For their debut, the pair created a collection full of [primary] color, mixed in prints and layered over one another to dazzling effect. Silhouettes in the Spring 2012 collection were varied, ranging from ladylike skirt-and-blouse ensembles to slim pants and jackets, and on the more voluminous side – a gorgeous trapeze dress and boiler suit, worn by none other than a brunette Chloë Sevigny as she closed the show.

And we’re not done yet! Check back this week for the final roundup of Paris Fashion Week!

Dries Van Noten

Harry: Dries Van Noten is one of my fashion heroes ever since he sent Indonesian ethnic prints down his Spring 2010 runway show. This season, his inspirations were David Bowie and the Ballets Russes. While I did not get the Ballets Russes inspiration, it was still a great show. Dries is the man when it comes to clashing prints. The black and white prints were giving me an optical illusion. That, paired with the prints, added an element of quirkiness to the collection that’s very Bowie. The socks with heels were pretty spectacular — and yes, there was also snakeskin. It’s crystal clear that snakeskin is going to be in for fall 2011.

Danielle: I can’t stop looking at the shoes from this collection — which means there might be a “department store situation” when I view them in real life for the first time. Overall, I love how balanced these looks are: some overpower with complex textiles, while others dominate in undeniable color blocking (and small details of pattern). The color scheme that flows through the textile mixing is aspirational, and held my attention and interest throughout the entire show. The finale looks made me want to cut up a variety of my own dresses and sew them up (in a blocking style).

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Danielle: Balmain presented a lazy collection this season. When I say lazy, I mean that they created nothing new — and are starting to bore me. Trendy Spring color updates to leather jackets and pants were made, but nothing innovative. Classically, the looks resembled “alternative” streetwalkers, and the famous $1,500 shredded knit tee got safety pins added to it. Their shredded leather shorts were safety pinned as well, and might demand a DIY project in my near future.

Harry: When the first look came out, I thought to myself “haven’t we seen this look on Daria before?” It is true that designers have to have their own signature style to keep the customers coming back to them. Christophe Decarnin undoubtedly has an eye for what young women want. Balmain is very Serena van der Woodsen, Rihanna, and all those cool girls. However, I wish there is a more distinct theme for every season—because it is supposed to be a show. Christophe’s theme has been rock ‘n’ roll for years now. It’s even hard to tell the season. Here’s a food for thought: next time you want to get that Balmain look, grab a basic T shirt from Old Navy, cut it, rip it, and then put the pieces back together with safety pins. Then, put on a pair leather leggings (the shinier, the Balmainer) and a jacket.

Danielle: Next time I want to step out onto the street and not have to see or deal with the world, I will turn to Chalayan’s scarf look. Also, I would be more than happy to have a team of three assistants following me; picking up my dress train to make the fabric seem as if it were floating.

Harry: Hussein Chalayan always challenges our mind to distinguish the line between avant-garde and insanity. This season, he toned it down a little bit. Gone are the days of coffee tables that transform into a wooden skirts or dresses that undress themselves, his Spring 2011 collection, as he mentioned, is “an abstract take on Japan.” The first four looks had the model’s face covered with a piece of fabric. Is he perhaps trying to address the women role in Japanese society? I admire Chalayan for sending down different materials, colors, textures and prints, but still able to make the collection looked cohesive.

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Ronnie Omar Nery, BFA Knitwear Design and current Sister City Scholarship Exchange recipient at Studio Berçot, sent us an about his adventures at Vivienne Westwood’s Paris show.

Here is his e-mail testimony as a pseudo Paris Fashion Week model:

You guys, I am having the time of my life! I’m such a huge fan of Vivienne Westwood, so I pretended to be a dresser and I got in to her show! Next thing I know, the producer is yelling that they need a stand in for the runway rehearsal because they are missing a model. Of course, I volunteer. As I am walking down the 50 meter runway with the lights on me and cameras going, I see Vivienne in the front row. She is staring at me like, ‘Who is this ghetto boy walking the runway with my models?’ I give her a wink and a little bow and she smiles. I ended up walking the runway 4 times for the rehearsal.

Vivienne finally comes backstage and I say, “I hope that I strutted my stuff good enough for you!” She laughs and I say, “I don’t know if you remember me from when you came to my school in San Francisco about 4 years ago — I asked you a question.” She says, “Oh  the Academy — How is Gladys?” and then “How is Rob?”

It was a great night and I got some contacts with her company as well as some of the models. Thank you guys again for all your help and support to get me here!

Oh that Ronnie!

Gladys Perint Palmer continues her reports from her time in Paris. This time, she shares some pics from a little soiree given by a designer you may have heard about…

July 7, 2010

Valentino gives a party at the Château de Wideville — an hour outside Paris.

Château de Wideville

At night it’s pink

Follow the jump for more pictures — including some of Gwyneth (as in Paltrow).
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Paris
On Aura Tout Vu
The gardens of Palais Royale
July 7th 10 a.m.

This is the day of Flora and Fauna in Paris.

The fauna continues from Chanel, with crocodiles on shoulders and shoes at On Aura Tout Vu.

On the subject of wild life there was Claude Montana looking quite mellow. In his heyday his bite was worse than his bark.

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Paris
Tuesday July 6th
7 p.m. till…. late

Givenchy:

Bust of Jules Hardouin Mansart

In the 17th century, the architect Jules Hardouin Mansart was given a cozy corner in 19 place Vendôme known as the Hôtel d’Évreux. The bust was made by Jean-Louis Lemoyne. Mansart was the the architect behind buildings such as Versailles, the Grand Trianon, the Château de Marly, and Les Invalides. Notice the cross of the Order of St. Michael, which denotes that he is an artist.

Once past the Givenchy securité we are greeted by (the bust of) Mansart. Upstairs, ten Haute Couture outfits by Riccardo Tisci adorn the rooms.

They are fit for princesses from countries under far bluer skies.

Most intriguing is a long dress with the sleeve covering arms and fingers. On close inspection, sleeve is attached at the shoulder with zipper.

Givenchy Haute Couture dress

Sleeve and glove attached at the shoulder

Chanel:

Waiting to get to Chanel at the Grand Palais — now a museum — at 8 p.m., we sit for a while next door at the Ritz.

Anna Wintour walks past wearing a plain beige belted dress. Chanel clients walk by in diamonds, sequins and feathers. Very short men in white linen walk by. Linda Wells’ sons walk by dressed for a party from The Great Gatsby.

Coco Chanel was a Leo

At Chanel there is an anatomically correct golden lion 11 metres (about 36 feet) high and 22 metres (about 72 feet) long. Models emerge from under a paw. Coco Chanel was a Leo and would have enjoyed the sight, after the show, when everyone rushed to congratulate Karl Lagerfeld under the belly.

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The buzzword in Paris is “flower power.” Remember you grandmother’s rubber petal swimming cap? Here it is in fabric on a savvy Dior client, blooming all over.

Words and Illustration by: Gladys Perint Palmer

Click here to read more of “Picture This” by GPP