I needed a table to put my sewing machine on, however the space in my room is limited so the table had to be pretty small — small enough to fit in the bottom of my closet. The table will also occasionally serve as a lap desk, coffee/end table, or cutting board — the point being it’s versatile. What more could you ask for in a tiny table?
To make your own you’ll need (photo 1):
- wood plank, I used a bookshelf, about 1′x3′
- 4 unfinished wood furniture legs
- 4 furniture leg brackets
- wood varnish
- paint brush
- drill
- screwdriver
- pencil
- various fabrics and papers
- foil tape
- box blade
- casting resin and catalyst
- scissors
- cutting mat
Begin by finishing the legs by applying varnish — and remember to always move the brush with the grain of the wood (photo 2). Let dry before touching them.
Next, mark the position of the four leg brackets so that the weight of the table is evenly distributed between the legs. Mark the bracket holes on the back of the table top. Pre-drill the holes, then attach the brackets with the screws. Attach the leg to the bracket (photo 3). Turn the table right side up to make sure it is level. Now begin cutting your papers and fabrics to create a scene, graphic, pattern, or collage (photo 4).
Finally, line the edge of the table top with foil tape, creating a rim around the top of the table. Mix the casting resin and catalyst per the instructions (and always in a well ventilated area). Pour the resin over the collage until the fabrics and papers are entirely submerged in resin (photo 5). Allow several days to dry. Remove surface bubbles by blowing on them.
After letting the resin set, set a glass of ice water on your brand new table and enjoy not needing coasters.
Of the three apartments I’ve lived called home, only one got more than 15 minutes of direct sun a day (two months out of the year I might add). Maybe I’m unlucky when it comes to the sun, but I’ve got a solution that doesn’t require renting a wrecking ball.
I figure that I can fake myself out with a false window with a treatment. This will help open up my tiny, skinny, “bed-can-only-be-in-one-corner” bedroom.
Supplies needed (photos 1 & 2):
-poster size landscape photo
-lattice board, approx. 10’
-fabric, enough to cover poster
-trim fabric
-pins
-sewing machine, needle & thread
-pencil
-hammer
-saw
-fabricscissors
-speed square, right angle
-nails
-curtain rod
-curtain rod hooks
-ruler or tape
Begin by cutting two pieces of fabric, each half the size of the photo plus two inches at each edge. Double the edges over and hem the side edges then the bottom at about 1/4”(photo 3).
Fold the top edge about 1/2” then again about 1 1/2” to create a loop for the curtain rod, and edge stitch the fold (photo 4). Repeat these steps with the second piece of fabric. Read more…
This week, by special request, I made a bag. Not just any bag, this bag will serve a very specific purpose for Hersha Steinbock, my Fashion Trend Analysis instructor. Hersha asked that I create “a bedazzled fruit and veg carrier so that I can enjoy my fresh produce between classes and still retain some semblance of my stylish pretensions.”
In an attempt to do just that, the following is what I came up with. Cute as a button, and just a bit more expensive, this bag will have everyone in the break room tucking their sandwich bags back into their brown paper sacks.
To make one of your own, you’ll need (photo 1):
o fabric, I chose a linen liner, for breathability, with a lace overlay
o scissors
o awl
o yarns
o pins
o chalk, or something to mark pattern with
o darner or embroidery needle
o ruler or French curve
o ribbons, about 2.5 yds.
o 1 yd. medium weight brass chain
Begin by cutting three 6-foot-long pieces of yarn. Braid them in sets of three to make the yarn stronger (photo 2).
To make the body begin with the lining fabric folded in two. Mark a crescent shape about ten inches wide, using the ruler or French curve and chalk (photo 3, bottom). Pin the edges of the outline, and cut the shape out, leaving a half inch seam allowance outside the line. Pin the lining shape to the lace fabric that has been folded in half and cut out the overlay pieces. Read more…
As a broke college student, precious metals and gemstones are slightly out of my league. So when a friend celebrates a birthday, I try to make a gift that is just as special. They may not be weighed in karats and they may cost pennies apiece, but these pretty, shiny things, can work wonders in the right setting.
Pins, nails, screws, buttons, rhinestones, paillettes, sequins, furniture tacks, washers, and even feathers can be preserved and protected by encasing them in plastic. After that, it’s only a matter of time before you have a beautiful chunky statement necklace.
What you’ll need to get started (photo 1 in the slideshow below):
o casting resin (Tap Plastics on South Van Ness has what you need)
o hardening catalyst
o resin dye, optional
o stirring utensil
o casting mold(s) (I used nifty “On the Rocks” ice trays from The Container Store, I would not recommend using anything that cannot be easily replaced as the plastic may damage the mold)
o rubber gloves
o graduated measuring cup
o funnel
o tweezers
o scissors
o glue
o items to be encased (i.e. anything that will fit into the mold)
o necklace chain
o non-stick foil
o hairdryer (optional)
Begin by cleaning any residue or dust from the molds that will be used. After that, put on the rubber gloves because you are about to work with some resin.
In the measuring cup, mix the casting resin and catalyst per the instructions on the resin can. Place your fingertip over the small end of the funnel, and fill the funnel with the casting mixture. Read more…
There are only so many ways to make a canvas shoe. Vans, Keds, K-Swiss, and TOMS all have their versions of the classic canvas sneaker – and those are just specialty brands. Nearly every brand has a take on this wardrobe staple, so it can become difficult to take part in the trend for fear of blending in.
Fortunately, with a little time and effort, you can create a custom pair that is exclusively yours. This goes for every garment. Buy something and don’t be afraid to make it your own.
I like to dye things. Clothes, curtains, tapestries, and especially shoes. Whether tie-dying, soaking, painting or dip-dying, there is nothing like changing the color of a piece of clothing to enhance it.
Things you’ll need (photo 1):
o shoes, made from natural fiber
o dye, one or more colors, I like Rit best
o table salt
o masking tape
o basin for dying, i.e., sink or bowl
o towel or cloth to dry on
Dissolve about 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of warm water in the dying basin (photo 2). Dampen the areas of the shoe that will be colored and the laces of desired. Begin adding the dye to the warm solution per the instructions on the dye package. Read more…
One of the best things about living in San Francisco is the amount of free junk that can be found on the street.
I recently came across an unfinished pinewood dresser that was being thrown out. With a few screws and a little bit of lumber I turned the drawers into a coat rack/shelving tower hybrid.
Supplies you will need (photo 1):
o shelves (drawers, crates, frames, etc.)
o wood stain or paint (water based products are best for indoor painting)
o lacquer thinner (if oil based paint or stain is used)
o paint brushes (various sizes)
o masking tape
o wood screws (4-8 per shelf)
o drill (but a hammer and nails will work just as well)
o small framing square
o pencil
o 3/4” x 2” pre-primed trim (cut to desired tower height at the hardware store)
Begin by wiping any dust from the shelves and masking off any areas that are not going to be painted (photo 1). Apply an even coat of stain or paint to the shelves, always painting with the grain of the wood (photo 2). Allow the color to dry for at least 24 hours. Read more…
Growing up, one of my favorite gifts was a Lite-Brite. I loved poking those colored plastic pegs through the black paper to create a garden, clown, or a beach scene.
Well, this week we take the Lite-Brite idea to an abstract level. Using just a few inexpensive items (and some of those Christmas lights you just took down), we’ll create an interesting piece of art that also serves as a lighting accent.
First, the things you’ll need (photo 1):
o canvas, about 20”x30”
o paint
o 1/2” wide masking tape
o brushes
o awl
o pencil
o string of lights
o sheer fabric
o straight pins
Begin by choosing a color scheme, then masking the canvas into smaller sections, creating the desired shapes. Then paint each part a different color within your scheme (photo 2).
Next, remove the tape to reveal a stained-glass effect (photo 3). From the front of the canvas, using the awl, punch holes into the canvas and put the lights through the holes. One light at a time is best to make sure the holes are the right distance from each other (photo 4). Keep in mind, the orientation of the lights to a power outlet or extension cord.
Once the desired light pattern has been achieved, move the lights around to the back of the canvas (photo 5). Use the fabric and pins to form little bubbles over the lights to contrast the pattern on the canvas (photo 6), and you will have created a dazzling piece of wall art.
With the twelve days of Christmas well under way, it is definitely time to kick the holiday cheer into high gear. Nothing is more fun than kitschy, tacky, gaudy holiday stuff. Disgustingly cute decorations, Santa hats, delicious goodies, not to mention the insanely cheerful attitudes crop up exponentially as we near the end of a rough decade, with hope of better luck next year.
To accompany the tacky holiday sweater from a few weeks back is this tacky holiday cuff, made from green leather, eyelets, and bells.
Supplies needed (photo 1)
* leather, preferably a holiday color
* ruler
* pen or marker
* eyelets
* eyelet punch
* hammer
* awl
* scissors
* bells
* fastener, mine is a magnetic purse snap
First decide the size of the cuff. Measure the wrist and add 2.5” for length. Mark the pieces on the back side of the leather (photo 2). Mark pieces top and bottom. If edge stitching is desired, mark points for eyelets about 1/2” from each edge, spaced 3/4” apart (photo 3). Read more…
After a small hiatus, our go-to DIY guy, Philip Washington is back!
Good candles are expensive. When I say good candles, I mean candles that don’t disappear after eight hours of burning. I ask for candles for Christmas because I’m too cheap to buy my own, and I like to spend my money on other things.
I also make them as Christmas gifts because it’s not expensive to make them from scratch. I won’t be giving away this batch because they are used, the offspring of a burned down Christmas gift from a few years ago.
The first part of the process is optional as pre-made wicks can be purchased at most craft stores, but I made my own because I had the supplies available.
To make candle wicks mix 2 tbsp. salt and 4 tbsp. borax in 1 1/2 c. warm water (photo 1). Soak 10” lengths of twine in the solution for 15 minutes. Let dry for several days (photo 2). Store extra wicks in rolled newsprint.
Supplies to make candles (photo 3):
o saucepan
o aluminum foil
o newspaper
o mixing bowl, to fit in saucepan snuggly
o wax
o fork or tongs to stir break up wax
o molds: cans, bottles, cartons, glass/ceramics, etc.
o stove or alternate heat source
o hammer, to help break wax
o measuring cup, ladle, pouring vessel
o tape, clothespins, rubber bands Read more…
Growing up in cowboy country there was always plenty of quality leather work to admire, and the craft of manipulating leather is something that I have been interested for a long time. I’m not saying my work is quality, nor am I deeming it admirable. However, I had a good time making this bag out of scraps I got from a friend of a friend who makes leather shoes.
There isn’t much required to make a bag (photo 1):
* leather, any colors, amount depends on the size of the bag being made Britex has nice sized leather and vinyl remnants, and so does discount fabrics
* box blade or X-acto knife
* awl or punch of some sort
* needle & thread, to reinforce corners
* lining fabric (optional)
Begin by marking your bag pattern on the wrong side of the leather. I chose a simple rectangular pattern. Add approximately 1/2” around each piece for seam allowance. Cut the pieces out and do the same with the lining fabric (photo 2). When cutting the back/top/flap piece, make sure to add the depth of the bag into the measurement. Read more…
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